Thursday, May 26, 2011

Huta Deregowska and Zarzecze

Roadside remembrance along our route
It's a good thing we had a GPS in our car; on our own, we would never have found these two tiny villages of my grandparents.  We started out from Warsaw and quickly began to drive through little villages with people clearing land by horse and plow and weeding great rows of vegetables and grains with hand-held hoes.  Very hard work. We passed many roadside remembrances, some very small and simple and some very ornate. The land was at first very flat; then we began to see undulating hills, all the while remaining bright hues of green.  Every once in a while, a small river snaked its way through the waving grain, then the wider Vistula River came into view and ran under our road. 
Cereal grains waving in the breeze

Maybe Dziadzi's house?
At last we got to the first village, Huta Deregowska, where my grandfather was born.  It didn't take long to drive through; it consisted of only about 40 houses all situated on the main street.  Some were pretty modern and some looked as though they had been there for at least a century. 


Try as we did, we could not get anybody to speak English to us, although one young man said, "Sorry."  That raised some suspicion that more people could speak English than would admit.  One elderly lady came out to her fence to look at us but shrugged when we asked her if she could speak English.  I said, "Thank you" to her in Polish, and she laughed and responded with something that I could only think must have been, "I didn't do anything for you."  We saw several very early houses that we imagined was what my grandparents must have lived in, and we found the very early churches in both villages.  We agreed that these definitely were old enough to have been their home town churches.  We later met a woman at a gas station who had lived in the US for 7 years.  She explained
church in Huta Deregowska
church in Zarzezce


that sometimes people would return to Poland to claim land that had belonged to their ancestors.  Hence, the general suspicion of foreigners. 

We drove the 1 1/2 miles to Zarzecze where my grandmother was born and came upon an old cemetery.  We stopped the car, got out and began to wander through it.  In a few minutes Terry called out that he had found something.  When we got there, we saw a Nalepa grave, then another and another.  There must have been at least 15-20 in all, some from Nalepas born in the early 20th century and some born later.  There was a section of very, very old unmarked graves like the kind that people who had died in the 19th century would have had.  We spent over an hour just looking at different tombstones, then we picked up a small remembrance to put on my dad's grave, and left since the afternoon was almost over and we still had miles to go before we could sleep.    

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Warsaw--5/23,24/2011

The waiter addressed us in Polish and was surprised to find that we were Americans.  "Really?" he exclaimed in his broken but mostly correct English.  "You look Polish."  Well, I guess I should since I'm half Polish.  We had landed in Warsaw late that afternoon, and although I don't feel a particular commonality with the motherland, I did get a little teary-eyed, mostly because I was thinking about my grandparents and what must have been lives of simple, but perhaps very family-oriented ways. Steeped in culture that I'd like to discover, the Polish people are blooming despite many winters of communist-dominated lives. 
The food that my grandmother fixed was definitely learned in the homeland.  We've already had a few helpings of pieroge, pork chops cooked like she made them (half browned, half oven-baked), 3 varieties of sauerkraut, and asparagus with browned butter.  Yum!  We've paid homage to the kind of churches they attended, and admired the beautiful and colorful varieties of flowers in every corner of town.
How fitting that we landed on Dad's birthday; we celebrated with a nice glass of red.  He had decided not to come to Poland when we had a chance several years ago, and Mom and I regretted that we hadn't put a little more pressure on him to change his mind (which he very rarely did anyway).  We did spend the evening thinking about the joy coming to this beautiful country would bring him as we walked around the old town square by our Castle Hotel which had been built in the 1500's.
Happy 92nd birthday, Dad

Warsaw ghetto memorial

Today we spent half a day on a city tour of Warsaw and got to enjoy two luscious parks, dedicated to Marshall Pilsudski and Frederick Chopin, and a couple of palaces, and the Royal Castle.  We also saw where the Warsaw ghetto had been during WWII; it was solemn and sad to see old photos and to know the history of that dreaded place.                                


Warsaw ghetto historical plaque

Old town square---our hotel on the far right





Breakfast in Old Town square
 We lunched today in the old town square and celebrated Terry's birthday with pieroge and wienerschnitzel with cabbage.  Our hotel was nearby, so after doing a little shopping on the way back, we packed our luggage and took a taxi back to the airport to rent a car.  Tomorrow we'll drive to my grandparents' home villages, Hute Deregowska and Zarzecze. 
Happy birthday, Terry!!



Friday, May 20, 2011

Getting Ready!!!

Mom and I are scurrying around, trying to think of everything that needs to be done before leaving her house.  We have already packed the bag (yes, both of us in one bag--can you believe that?)  and it has been sitting on the floor for almost a week.  Trying to think of the small incidentals is the difficult part, and doing them is the time-consuming part.  But, we started early, so we think we have thought of everything.  Hmm.

Terry is in Mukilteo, doing the same thing there.  I just hope that together we have thought of what we need to have a successful trip.  We will meet him in Chicago tomorrow.  We arrive at 2:35 pm and he arrives at 2:40, so that part is handy.  We'll then take off to London at around 7 pm and arrive in the morning of May 22 at 9 am.  Another long period of waiting and then we are on British Air to Warsaw, arriving at 5 in the afternoon.

We're all very excited to be going to Poland where my grandparents are from and will make an effort to meet anyone related to us or friends of the family when we get to their villages.  How fitting that we'll be there on Dad's birthday.  He would have been 92.

We'll be sure to send photos and write a little about each city that we visit.  Thanks to all of you who are willing to spend time reading about our travels and writing us emails.  We look forward to that.